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It genuinely is twilight as I nose out of the parking garage at Frankfurt Airport in Germany. It’s a sunny evening in early May, and the last golden wisps of light are shading the sky to the west as I turn south. Physically, my destination is Stuttgart, but philosophically, I’m seeking another time. A time before the twilight of the Autobahn.

The plan was a simple one. Collect a fast car, head out to one of the most historic stretches of road in all of Germany—the Frankfurt-to-Damrstadt Autobhan—and experience, maybe for the last time, the sheer thrill of driving with no legal speed limit. The last time? Oh, yes—sadly, the end is nigh for this kind of driving, with environmental factors likely being the final nail in the coffin.



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